Introduction
Summer Kyoto on a 2-night, 3-day solo trip — centering on the Kamo River delta, the elegant Eizan Railway “Hiei,” mossy Rurikō-in, the quiet beauty of Shisendō, a hillside temple packed with tanuki statues, and the night-only Mitarashi Festival at Shimogamo Shrine. Between sights I refueled with an ultra-fluffy egg sandwich, shaved ice, thick chicken ramen, and the birthplace of mitarashi dango. Hot? Absolutely. Unforgettable? Even more.
How to Get There
By Train & Local Lines
- Base in the Demachiyanagi / 出町柳 area (Keihan + Eizan lines). It’s steps from the Kamo River delta.
- For the mountain side, ride the Eizan Railway to Yase-Hieizan-guchi (about 15 min). Keep an eye out for the designer train “Hiei”.
- City transit: Kyoto City Bus & Subway for cross-town moves.
Getting Around (Share Bike)
- Share bikes are perfect along the Kamo River. E-bikes accelerate quickly — helmet strongly recommended.
- Return ports can be scarce at peak times — check the app map before you ride.
Must-See Places
🏞️ Kamo River Delta (Demachiyanagi)
- Breakfast on the riverbank with handmade onigiri; hop the turtle-shaped stepping stones between the two streams.
- Tip: stones can be slippery — keep both hands free. Summer soundtrack = cicadas at full volume.
🚃 Eizan Railway “Hiei”
- A uniquely stylish train named after Mt. Hiei — bold exterior, elegant interior, and leafy views en route to Yase-Hieizan-guchi.
- Ride time: about 15 minutes from Demachiyanagi. The ride is short but scenic.
🏡 Rurikō-in
- Famous for the black table that mirrors the garden like glass; a mossy, tranquil escape.
- Seasonal/limited openings & variable admission — check the official site in advance.
- Official: 🔗 Rurikō-in
🖼️ Shisendō
- A former scholar’s villa with a framed-garden view and the rhythmic shishi-odoshi.
- Fun fact: shishi-odoshi began as a field-protecting device, not just a garden accent.
- Official: 🔗 Shisendō
🦝 Tanukidanisan Fudō-in
- Twenty minutes’ walk into the hills from Ichijōji; a sea of tanuki statues and torii greet you.
- Main hall juts out over the slope (Kiyomizu-style). Counted steps and mountain spring water keep spirits up — bring bug spray.
- Info: 🔗 Temple site
⛩️ Shimogamo Shrine – Mitarashi Festival
- Night-only foot purification in the spring-fed Mitarashi Pond with candle in hand. Water is shockingly cold even in midsummer.
- Fee: ¥500 at reception (at time of visit). Water-activated omikuji available.
- Official: 🔗 Shimogamo Shrine
💄 Kawai Shrine
- Known for beauty prayers. Draw your ideal face on a mirror-shaped ema with your own makeup — beauty inside and out.
- Official: 🔗 Kawai Shrine
Local Food (& Sweets)
🥪 Café “Amazon”
- Legendary fluffy egg sandwich and iced coffee; made to order, not pre-made. The toasted mix sandwich is neater but still hearty.
- Main shop in Kyoto Shichijō; also a branch near where I first tried it.
🍜 Menya Gokkei – Ichijōji Ramen Street
- Famous for ultra-thick chicken paitan that borders on velvety potage; medium yellow noodles, thick menma, tender chashu.
- Looks heavy, finishes clean. Lines common — check hours and sell-out times.
🍡 Kamo Mitarashi Chaya (since 1922)
- Birthplace of mitarashi dango: small, lightly charred dumplings with a refined glaze.
- Takeout priority; minimum order was 5 sticks (at time of visit). Eating by the cool riverside bridge = bliss.
🍧 Shaved Ice (Kuromitsu × Kinako)
- When it’s dangerously hot, cool from the inside. Fluffy ice crowned with roasted soybean flour and slow-poured black sugar syrup.
- Pro tip: kinako can make you cough — go slow!
Where I Stayed
Capsule Hotel with Wi-Fi & TV — compact, clean, budget-friendly. Only quirk: my remote also controlled the TV across the aisle (!).
Tips & Costs (at time of visit)
- Shimogamo – Mitarashi foot ritual: ¥500.
- Rurikō-in: opening periods & admission vary by season (advance check essential).
- Share bike: app registration required; e-bikes accelerate fast — ride defensively.
- Ichijōji ramen street: many shops in short radius; lines move but sell-outs happen.
- Always confirm latest hours/prices on each spot’s official site before you go.
Conclusion
Kyoto in midsummer is fierce — yet with water to cool your feet, moss to rest your eyes, and carbs to power your steps, it turns into the sweetest kind of challenge. If the heat scares you, try this same route in autumn or winter: the elegance stays, the temperatures drop, and the river keeps whispering.